The colours of an Amakusa summer

Ushibuka Haiya Bushi may be the star of the festival, but the Summer Haiya is just as much of a community event, an opportunity for everyone to gather.

Early evening, just as the blazing heat of day softens to a sultry humidity, is the perfect time to head to the night market. Usually organised by the Ushibuka Shotengai Association, it’s the quintessential Japanese matsuri––stalls selling grilled oysters and syrupy shaved ice, families and children playing old-fashioned games involving plastic balls and hoops and goldfish, festival-goers sitting by the roadside with glasses of beer.

The community centre hosts live musical performances from Ushibuka locals. In contrast to traditional min’yo, the performers usually choose Japanese golden oldies, such as Yumi Matsutoya’s Yasashisa ni Tsutsumareta nara, or Sakamoto Kyu’s Ue wo Muite Arukou (popularly known as Sukiyaki in the Western world). It’s a chance for everyone to kick back, relax, and enjoy the music. The performances are then followed by a raffle. Who doesn’t fancy a chance at winning a bottle of sake, a bag of fruit, or (if you’re really lucky) a television?